Saturday, February 20, 2010

Sake (酒)

Sake, the traditional alcoholic beverage of Japan, is something that is somewhat unknown back home in Tennessee. Of course a lot of people know about it, but it seems that they only know that it's a drink and it's from Japan.

There are tons of different kinds of sake. Almost every region in Japan has its own special brand and in many cases more than one. I've decided to use this blog to give people more knowledge of this great spirit.

The first one I tried was Yoshinotomo (よしのとも). It was very nice. It had a nice smooth flavor and didn't a strong after taste as a lot of sake does. It goes very nice with fish, especially tuna. I drank it at room temperature, but the nice old man at the liquor shop said you could drink it hot as well. I highly recommend this sake.

Friday, February 19, 2010

The Onsen

When people think of winter they usually think of bundling up and staying in a nice, warm room with no desire to take a bath or otherwise get wet. Not so the Japanese. In Japan one of the greatest parts of winter is taking a dip in a steaming hot hot springs. Speaking from experience, these are great.

Generally an onsen is rather large and almost feels like a hotel. You walk in and pay the entry fee. The lobby is usually adorned with several chairs or sometimes sofas and other sitting areas. There is also often a restaurant on location as well. You can also buy towels if you did not bring your own before you enter the actual bathing area. In most cases the sexes are separated (co-ed ones are extremely rare). You go through a curtain, blue for men and red for women. You enter into a locker room where you must strip down. Yes, you are naked as the day you were born when you go into the onsen. Some foreigners might feel a big embarrassed doing this, but most Japanese won't pay any mind to a naked foreigner (most of the time).

Once you're done stripping you move into the primary washing area of the onsen. You see at ano onsen or other traditional Japanese bath, you don't use the bath itself to clean off, you do that before you even get in. So you sit down at a shower stall and begin to wash up. There is usually shampoo and soap provided, but you can bring your own. It is important to make sure that you rinse off any and all soap from your body. It is extremely bad manners to enter a bath with either soap or bypassing the washing stage entirely. After your clean up you can finally enter the baths.

The baths are generally extremely hot, often close to 30 degrees or higher. Some baths are infused with minerals or other helpful additives. You soak in these baths to relax and to aid in healing (some baths are renowned for their curative abilities). You can move around and try different baths. A cold bath is also provided for a cool down if you so desire. Another feature of the onsen is the outdoor area. This can be a bit intimidating especially in winter, but these are among the most relaxing of baths. The mixture of hot water and cold air is invigorating. A favorite of mine is the shallow water area in which you lay down and allow the water to barely cover your entire body. This is quite refreshing especially when you have someone to converse with. One of my most recent times at the onsen was with my host father and we talked about everything from philosophy to volunteer work with the Peace Corps.

After you finish your bath it's time to go and get changed. Before leaving the bathing area it is often a good idea to take a quick shower. Basically you want to cool down a bit and to wash off any mineral or what not that you might have on your body. Once back in the changing room and dressed, the traditional thing to do is enjoy a nice, cold bottle of milk. This is my favorite thing about the onsen. After being subjected to hot temperatures for an hour (and sometimes longer), cold milk is very comforting.

As awesome as onsens can be there are some possible downsides. One example is the glaring old folks. I don't know about women's experiences, but I've had a couple times where an older man often glared at me and I could feel the loathing from him. However, don't allow this to deter you. Angry, anti-foreign types are the minority. Go forth and enjoy a hotspring.

Great places to try onsens are Gero, Kurama and Takayama.

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

A Japanese New Year

This year I took time off of my typical New Year's partying and clubbing scene to spend a more traditional time with some of my friends in Osaka.

I learned a lot this year like if you're going to travel somewhere in Japan for New Year's don't wait for New Year's eve to go. The trains and subways were extremely busy and it made traveling very difficult. Also, when you go home don't wait for the day before everything starts up again because you'll run into even heavier crowds and will thus have an even more hectic trip than before.

Aside from the crazy traveling and manic crowds I had a great time. I met my friends near their house and helped pick out that evening's dinner and beverages. Once back at their house the feasting began. We had kimchi nabe (a dish where everything is cooked in a large pot and everyone takes what they want, similar to soup). It was awesome. There were tons of stuff in it, sausages, tofu, pork, green onions, mushrooms, bean sprouts and cabbage. On top of that we had traditional New Year's food made by my friend's mom (who is an excellent cook). So we ate and watched K-1, drank, ate more and finally passed out around 2am.

The next day we went to the local shrine to pay our New Year's respects to the gods, but when we got there the line was too long and my friends didn't want to wait as it was pretty cold. After returning home we ate more of the New Year's food and watched more tv.

Around dinner time my friend decided he wanted to go to yakiniku. Back home in the States we usually refer to this as Korean bar be que. Yakiniku is one of my favorite things in Japan. It's just so good. The place we went has just one type of sauce (other restaurants may have several different kinds you can choose from) and it was delicious. We loaded up on beer and tons of beef and pork. After dinner my friends and I decided to hit a local karaoke box where we sung out hearts out for about 3 hours. It was great. Our designated driver took me and her husband back to their house and we promptly went to bed.

The next two days were much more sedate and I just lounged around with my friend and watched wacky Japanese New Year's TV. I finally packed up my gear on the 3rd and headed back to Nagoya.

Overall it was a pretty great time. I had a great time with great friends and I feel that I got a good view of Japanese tradition and home culture.

Thursday, November 26, 2009

Tajimi

Well, I'm actually sitting down to update this thing. I've been quite remiss about updating this. I'll be better from now.

Last weekend I went to Tajimi city in Gifu prefecture. I had been there once before about 5 years ago, but it was just in passing and I was dead tired since I had walked 12 kilometers there. This time was quite different. For starters I participated in an International Day at a Junior High School. That was a lot of fun. Although it felt like I had stepped into the ending scene of Star Wars as when we walked into the gym we were walking down a line of students much like Luke and Han did. All we needed was a Wookie.

So basically after the opening ceremony we were all divided up amongst the classes and went to their rooms. We played games and talked. I was surprised at how well the students spoke English. They should definitely be proud of themselves. After that we had a closing ceremony and then met our host families.

My host mom was the head of the group who put this together. She was very nice and accomodating. I felt a bit out of sorts and didn't want her to fuss over me. She made an awesome dinner of tenpanyaki. It was awesome. Then she and her husband took me to a hotsprings. It too was great. The dad was so cool. He knew a lot about Japan. He also did the Japanese equivalent of Peace Corps. It was interesting listening to his stories.

On Sunday morning after a great spinach omelette my host mom took me sight seeing. I got to see the Tajimi city ceramics hall (with a great view of the city). We then hit this old Catholic church and then a great temple. The temple has an awesome bridge and a small cliff with several Buddhist images carved on it.

From the temple it was on to lunch. I had a great Taiwan ramen and some fried chicken. Honestly great stuff. Then we got to go to a free classic music concert. It was indeed a perfect weekend.

Sunday, September 27, 2009

Yoshihiko

So last Monday I decided to take a walk to the local shrine. This shrine isn't a normal shrine it's one of the great shrines of Japan. It also houses one of the three sacred treasures of Japan: the Grass Cutting Sword. Oh, the name of the shrine is Atsuta Shrine.

I get there and wander about for a bit and then a very friendly looking Japanese man approached me and cheerfully said "Good morning!". I responded in kind and we began talking. Very soon he asked if he could lead me around the shrine. Of course I couldn't pass up this opportunity for knowledge so I gratefully accepted his offer. I'm glad I did. He took me around the entire shrine and I learned about Shinto and other aspects of Japanese culture and lifestyle. It was a very fascinating experience. Especially when he began discussing his philosophy on life and how it is intertwined with Shinto and Buddhist thought. It was great. It was probably the best conversation I had with a Japanese person in probably 3 or 4 years. I'm very happy to meet him and I hope to meet him again in the future when I again wander about the grounds of Atsuta shrine. His name is Yoshihiko and is one of the coolest Japanese people I've ever met.

It is experiences like this that makes being a foreigner such a great thing. Sometimes people really want to share their culture with you and are very happy when you listen. This is one of the reasons why I encourage every college student I meet to do a study abroad. You get to meet people like Yoshihiko and you get to learn about your host country in more depth.

Friday, September 18, 2009

Karaoke

So last night was the first of what is sure to be many trips to the local karaoke box. It started off as a bit of a logistical nightmare, but after everyone got to the place the good times flowed like booze. We basically did a nomihoudai which means "all you can drink". And drink all we could. There are usually different kinds of nomihoudai menus. Ones with beer. Ones with soft drinks. Ones with mixed drinks. And ones with everything. We did the mixed drink one. So every few minutes I'd get up and shuffle to the bar and grab another drink. I discovered anzu sake. Not quite sure want anzu is, but it was tasty.

I belted out some Blue Hearts and some old Japanese songs. And then I did my rendition of the Sex Pistols' Anarchy in the UK, complete with Johnny Rotten style voice. A friend did Blitzkrieg Bop and someone else did Don't Stop Believin'. It was overall a great night.

I'm off to Kyoto today. Going to attempt to do the low budget travel thing since my funds have been brutalized by the horrible exchange rate.

Sunday, September 13, 2009

Arrival

So I arrived on Friday night tired, sweaty and really thirsty. My fellow Memphians and I got some ramen and I of course got a beer. After waiting at the airport for about 2 hours or so we finally went to the school. After a brief meeting with current students I went to sleep.

Sleep was something that would not come easily. I was fully awake at 0530. Not wanting to wake my room mate, I went for a walk. I explored a lot of the surrounding area of the school and eventually found my way to the ward office and Atsuta shrine. I bought a map book and I found my way back to school.

Tired as I was I went shopping with the rest of the exchange students...In the pouring rain. After a 30 minute trek and being thoroughly drenched we made it to the store and proceeded to shop. I picked up most of the necessities: soap, shampoo, beer, etc.

After shopping I cleaned up and went to meet my old friends Yutaka and Miki. We met up and went to a little yakitori place. We ate and drank and chatted most of the night. We ended up at two different yakitori places. It was a great time.

Sunday was much more sedate and I only went to okonomiyaki and then the Setomono matsuri. It was fun.