Kyoto on the cheap

I read the Lonely Planet's articles posted onto the BBC on almost a daily basis.  I was skimming through when I saw this article.  It's a decent article, but I feel the author's view of a "budget" differs quite a bit from many of his readers'.  I know when I did a double take when I read that 8,000 yen/night was supposed to be cheap.  I'm sorry, but it can be done much cheaper than that.

First off, for accommodation, you should look at hostels before anything else while traveling in Japan.  Japanese hotels, while very nice they are extremely expensive.  When I needed to sleep in Kyoto I chose Utano Youth Hostel.  It's a nice and fairly large place in the Northwest area of Kyoto, not too far from Kinkakuji (the Golden Temple).  It was nice when I stayed there and has since been renovated so I'm guessing it's just plain lavish now.  The desk staff is great and very helpful.  When my buddy and I rolled in just about 20 minutes before the doors closed, the desk worker gave us a map to a convenience store and free use of the bikes.  The rooms are dormitory, but each bunk has a privacy curtain.  I actually prefer the dorm style as I can meet new people.  The facility was clean and safe.  They had a secure closet that you could lock valuables in if you didn't want to lug them around the city with you.  They also had a very decent breakfast buffet.  When it wasn't meal time you could use the kitchen to cook whatever you want (you had to provide your own food).  It's another great way to save while traveling.  Another plus is that they are on one of the main routes for the buses.  The bus system winds its way around the city, allowing fairly easy access to the city's attractions.  For this great transportation system you can buy a 500 yen day pass at the hostel.  The pass allows you to ride any city bus (only ones that stop at yellow stops on the map which are most of the stops in the city) as many times as you want.  I've used this bus pass many times in Kyoto and it is great to see the city.

When traveling on a budget you don't always have the luxury of eating the famous local foods.  It's great to eat the local specialty, but if you're wallet is getting thin you need to be careful you don't become thin as well.  In my years in Kyoto I found tons of cheap alternatives to the more upscale local fare.  My favorite place is Donguri.  It's an okonomiyaki (Japanese style pancakelike food) shop on the Northwest corner of the Shijo and Kawaramachi intersection.  It's in the sublevel and is a bit hard to see.  So you really have to look carefully.  It's a very nice looking restaurant, but very affordable.  One okonomiyaki is only 500 yen and it fills you up.  Another plus to this place is that it's nice enough to be a date spot.  I took many ladies here in my time and they all enjoyed.

Not feeling a grilled cabbage pancake?  You should check out the numerous ramen shops around the Kiyamachi area.  My favorite is Ichikura.  It's on the Western side of Kiyamachi just past the Mini Stop.  It's miso ramen is some of the best I've had (and I've had a lot).  It's pretty decently priced too, just about 600 yen or so.  Nagahama ramen is just North from Ichikura and on the Eastern side of the street.  It specializes in Tonkotsu ramen.  It's good, but I prefer Ichikura.

You can find an assortment of restaurants down any of the alleys connecting Kiyamachi and Kawaramachi.

If you're really in a financial bind grab your chow at Matsuya or Sukiya.  They are national beef bowl chains and are great for the price.  You can dine on a beef bowl for around 300 yen.  You can also get unlimited refills on rice and miso soup (if you're at Matsuya).  This is a great shop for travelers truly on a shoestring.

Kyoto is deceptively big.  It looks small and feels small, but for someone who isn't used to walking, it will seem huge.  It can take a very long time to move between one place to the next.  Bicycles are good, but I advocate the one day bus pass.  The bus routes can be congested, but you can travel across the city on the cheap and you can ride the bus as much as you want.  If you're going a short distance, walk.  Another reason I don't recommend bikes for moving around Kyoto is the people traffic.  Sidewalks often get jam packed with people.  The roads (especially around major sites) are going to be filled with cars.  It's best to walk when you're going somewhere close and to use the bus for longer trips.  I've used the buses several times and have had nothing but success with them.

Unfortunately Kyoto's main tourist sites can be rather expensive.  Most charge around 300-500 yen to get in.  Some are free, but those are rare.  One nice thing is that on some holidays the temples are free to get in.  I once happened to go to Sanjyusangendo during the coming of age festival and got to tour that awesome temple for free.  Another free site, but is off the beaten path, is Fushimi Inari in the Southern area of Kyoto.  It's a Shinto shrine is definitely one of the finest I've been to.  It promises a nice walk into the Southern hills of Kyoto.  If like spooky things, go around dusk.

Another free spot in Kyoto is the Gion district.  Gion was the old party quarter where the samurai used to get their tea on.  Now, it's full of expensive tea shops and old buildings.  Walking around the area is free and gives you somewhat of an idea of old Japan.  Also, if you're lucky you may see a Geisha or Maiko walking to and from tea houses.  This spot perks up in July with the Gion Festival.

Just East of Gion is Maruyama Park and Yasaka Shrine.  Yasaka is actually the gateway to Maruyama.  It's a nice shrine, which is especially nice during cherry blossom season.  You can kill some time and relax in this nice shrine/park.  If you go South from the park you will eventually wind up at Kiyomizu Temple.

For those of you who enjoy spirits, you can even drink on the cheap in Kyoto.  The Hub, located just off of Kawaramachi to the South of Sanjo street.  If you get there between 5pm and 7pm you can enjoy their very reasonable happy hour.  Beer is half off and you can get a jumbo gin and tonic for about 200 yen (I can't remember exactly the price, but it is very cheap).  Another less than expensive place to wet your whistle is at Nikki's Bar.  Nikki's is on Kiyamachi, South of Sanjo on the Western side of the street in the building next to Ichikura ramen.  His beer runs at 700 yen a glass (decent prices for Japan), but it's his harder stuff that is more affordable.  A glass of liquor is 500 yen.  Shots are the same.  Nikki also makes a mean Long Island Iced Tea.

Kyoto is an amazing city.  It's full of culture and food and other great experiences.  You shouldn't let Japanese high prices keep you from seeing this cultural gem (in my opinion Kyoto is better to see than Tokyo or any other city for that matter).  There's tons to do in this city on the cheap, allowing you to use your money on worthwhile things like temples and castles.  Go and explore my single most favorite city on Earth.

Loveless Cafe

When one thinks of the Loveless Cafe images of biscuits fill their minds.  It can't be helped.  Loveless Cafe is famous for its biscuits and rightly so.  They are delicious.  They're just about the best biscuits I've ever had and everything else I had on their menu is fantastic as well.

The place looks like an old hotel.  One that would be found on an old fashioned state highway.  Well that's because it was a hotel that was found on a state highway.  The hotel components are long closed, but now it is a small compound of buildings selling food, nicknacks or other American South items.  The gift shop is pretty nice and stays to mainly Cafe goods (I hate it when gift shops have junk that doesn't relate to the place it's at).  The other shops were "meh" in my opinion but still worth a look.

The biggest draw of course is the food.  It's great Southern cooking.  Everything is made from scratch (and you can taste that fact).  The service is very good with the server checking on their customers extremely frequently.  The meal my party had was the Family Style Breakfast #2.  It includes:  fresh  cut fruit, bacon and sausage, hashbrown casserole, sausage gravy, grits scrambled eggs, biscuits and homemade preserves.  It's about $13 per person, but it's all you can eat.  Please note that you have to choose between sausage and bacon.  I know it's a hard choice, but you have to.  The preserves were amazing as well.  I think those were my third favorite thing after the biscuits and hashbrown casserole.

If you're ever in the Nashville area and you want to try some authentic Southern cooking you should head to the Loveless Cafe.  It's located on Highway 100 on the Eastern side of town.

Summer plans finalized

One of the nice things about being a teacher is the summer vacation.  I'll get roughly 2 months off and it is something that I will greatly enjoy and treasure.  I don't want to just sit around my apartment watching Netflix all summer, so the wife and I are going to do some traveling.

We toyed around with several possible destinations like Yellowstone National Park, Florida, Colorado and Mammoth Caves.  However, we settled on San Francisco, California.  We couldn't decide on a destination.  Until this past Sunday.

Talking to my cousins about my upcoming parenthood the discussion came to our trip (we were originally going to California, but money was becoming a problem).  My cousins offered us a gift of money in order to make the trip.  I was floored.  I hadn't expected this at all.  My excitement level jumped and I had a hard time staying focused.  I wanted to start planning.

Since we are driving I wanted to see as much as possible without doing too much.  We decided that our first stop for the evening will be Amarillo, Texas.  At first it was just a reasonable place to stop and get some sleep.  However, after looking around on the internet I discovered that Amarillo is home to The Big Texan.  We will definitely dine there on our first night out.  I always enjoy eating at famous places or places that have a novelty.  Besides, I hear that the steak is good.  I will, however, not be doing the 72 oz. steak challenge.  I know when to quit.

After The Big Texan we will have a bit of a drive to our next destination:  The Petrified Forest.  I've wanted to see this for about 15 years and finally it seems that I'll be able to see it.  Since the wife's condition we will not be doing any super hiking or anything too strenuous.  I figure we'll spend an hour, two at most at the Petrified Forest.  Our second bed spot will be Flagstaff.

Day three will see us at the Grand Canyon.  I've seen it once, but it's definitely worth another look.  It's also on my wife's list of places she wants to see in the US.  I wish we were able to hike down to the bottom, but that will be for another time.

Our last leg alone will be from the Grand Canyon to Las Vegas where we'll meet up with my cousins Mike and Ben.  From there it's up to the Sierra-Nevada Mountains, Yosemite and then finally San Francisco.  I'm sure it'll be a great trip and I'm very excited.

If you have any suggestions or comments, please feel free to contact me.